Step one, invent the universe

The problem with vaguely historical costumes is the need for vaguely historical undergarments. It's a lot harder to get the finished look, if you don't start with a corset and petticoats. But that also means that I have been working on this project for a month and haven't made anything that you're going to see when it's done. But I have made something. I've linked to supplies below, and they're not affiliate links. Just maybe useful. 

I have finished my tight laced (for me) cupped corset, and my pillow looks great in it. I flat patterned it from my measurements, although I did drape the cups off of one of my bras. They ended up needing several revisions, and I'm still not completely happy with them. My first pass I was hoping to get away without an underwire, by using cording on the cups and a lot of bones in the body of the corset. This just didn't work. The bust kept wanting to fall forward, and needed more support than the busk and bones could provide. In the end I harvested the underwire and channel from an old bra, and paired it with a steel lacing bone as a busk. I had a pair sitting around, since I think they're too rigid for my center back, but just right for when I need to essentially build a cable bridge for my boobs. 

I made it out of two layers, mostly because I don't like adding boning channels separately if I don't have to. The strength layer is coutil from Farthingales, and it is a bit weird to work with. I found that a universal needle would cut the threads of the fabric, but a microtex was fine. It is very stiff, but will conform to a shape with steam, and I found it OK where it needed to be eased in. They mention that theatre productions will use this as a base layer in doublets, and I can see why. I might use what I have left over for that purpose. The fashion layer is the "plain" dyed poly taffeta from mood in eggplant. Besides being a little spongy for a taffeta, it's also not plain dyed. The weft is a bright purple, and the warp is black. It does give it a great look in good light, and I might consider using it for future projects. Especially with the current price of silk. 

The bones are mostly flat steel, with a couple German plastic bones thrown in where there's a recurve. For the cording on the hip panels I used butcher twine. Easy to get, OK to use. I made my own bias trim, and the cups do not have any extra interfacing, but I would probably add a little padding or something next time to even out the fashion layer and make it look a little less like a bag. Overall I'm happy with the results, but there are some fixes for next time. Mostly in the cup pattern and hip insert. But this is absolutely good enough to be completely hidden under my clothes. Next up is a bustle pad to help support the skirts.

brb.